Big surf roared into Southern California on Thursday as a winter swell built up through the day, which is expected to stick around through Friday.
And another new swell is expected to arrive right behind it on Saturday with even bigger waves anticipated, creating hazardous conditions throughout the weekend, but a thrilling end for expert surfers enjoying the last waves of 2023.
Surfers flocked to beaches from San Diego to Seal Beach to the South Bay on Thursday; in some areas the punchy, strong surf reached upward 10 feet. By Saturday, waves could be in the 15- to 18-foot range in some areas, such as Huntington Beach.
In Northern California, even larger waves were slamming the coast, with big-wave surfers flocking to the famed Mavericks surf break near Santa Cruz.
Novices be warned: This isn’t the time to try out the new surfboard you got for Christmas.
Despite morning high tides, the waves were not yet big enough in the early hours Thursday to cause flooding damage in low-lying areas, but officials are on standby throughout the weekend.
Beach cities have built up sand berms as reinforcements against the battering waves to try to safeguard structures, streets and parking lots. Lifeguards up and down the coast also beefed up their staffing, calling in seasonal guards, knowing many people were still visiting or on holiday break.
“We’ve been tracking the swell, we’ll have a four-day, XXL swell period,” Huntington Beach Marine Safety Battalion Chief Trevor McDonald said.
“We’re letting surfers, bodyboarders and swimmers know it’s experts only – and even then we like them to check with lifeguards,” he said.
Guards were working hard through the morning Thursday warning people of hazards and taking preventative steps to keep people safe before they hit the water, McDonald said. In addition to big waves, strong currents were sweeping people down the beach.
“Lifeguards want people to have a great time at the beach, but the No. 1 priority…
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