Tiki bars, despite their purported Polynesian roots, are as California as the Gold Rush and boogie boards. Stepping inside one is being part of Golden State history. After Trader Vic’s opened its first place in Oakland in 1934, these maximalist odes to tropical-drink frivolity have endured the sands of time when other once-popular themed bars flew too close to the sun. (Remember the rash of swing joints in the late ’90s after “Swingers” came out?) Which isn’t to sayTiki bars have got off scot-free; a critical lens in recent years has shed light on the genre’s troublesome themes of indigenous exoticism and colonial nostalgia.
But Tiki bars have also added much to the cocktail canon, acting as hubs of mixology innovation by concocting such mainstays as the mai tai and the fogcutter. Modern Tiki spots have even moved toward more nautical décor as thematic center points. Here’s our guide to the best Tiki bars around Southern California
Los Angeles County
Tonga Hut
12808 Victory Blvd., North Hollywood; 818-769-0708, tongahut.com; Hours: 4 p.m.-midnight Tuesday-Thursday; 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Friday; 2 p.m.-1 a.m. Saturday; 2 p.m.-midnight Sunday.
Though from the street the highly decorated Tiki bar may appear to be closed, guests actually enter through the back. It’s a party on the patio, too, which has a big Polynesian island vibe, and there’s one heck of a Tiki bash going on inside. Tonga Hut opened in 1958 and is the oldest tiki bar in Los Angeles. Though the patio is nice, you’ll want to score a bar stool or booth inside to fully soak in the ambiance. The dimly lit bar has a fireplace, velvet paintings, Tiki fountains and a few communal couches to gather with friends. It fills up quickly, so call in advance to make a reservation to snag a spot inside.
The service is quick and the bartenders are expert-level at making Tiki drinks that aren’t too overly sweet, but pack a mean punch. Start with the Zombie, made with white and dark rums and a bit of…
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