Not to go too far over the top here, but there’s nothing in the San Fernando Valley like TLV Tapas Bar. There may be nothing like it in Southern California. It’s so totally unique, so one of a kind, so sui generis that, yes, I’ve got to resort to Latin to describe it.
It’s also largely misnamed, for many (most?) of the dishes served here aren’t tapas.
And indeed, if you want to stick to the notion that Tapas refers to Spanish small dishes, this isn’t a tapas bar at all. It’s a restaurant with a multitude of tables that cater to large groups, and lots of celebrations. It’s noisy, lively, madcap – and very tasty. Call it a tapas bar if you want. Just give me more of that tasty chopped liver and hummus.
I guess, broadly speaking, TLV can be described as an Israeli restaurant; after all, it’s closed on Fridays, and opens only once the sun has set on Saturdays. The first section of the menu is referred to as “Ktanot,” which is Hebrew for “small.” The section with lamb chops and skewers is “Al Ha’Esh” – “On the fire.” Desserts are “Metukim” – “Sweet.” But then, “Charcoal Roasted Vegetables” are presented in English. And there’s another section headed “Salads ’n Things,” which is where the menu goes wildly multinational.
Those “Things” range from very Japanese toro and yellowtail sashimi, to deeply French frisée salad. The sorbet with meringue and blueberry coulis is French as well. Börek pastry is from the Balkans.
Further down the menu, there’s a dessert called “Night in Beirut” – which is, of course, in Lebanon. The kohlrabi with cashew butter sounds like something you’d find in our new wave of upscale vegan eateries. Ditto the okra, which is flavored with Japanese soy sauce, and Turkish urfa peppers.
But have no doubt that the Jerusalem bagel found among the starters is indeed from Israel. It is not, however, a bagel like the bagels we eat here in the Valley, nor like the ones I grew…
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